Chapter Seventy: The Temple Fair (Part One)

Temple fairs, known in the Song Dynasty as “Temple Markets,” were among the traditional forms of marketplace in China. The concept of temple fairs emerged during the Han Dynasty, took shape in the Tang Dynasty, and became formalized during the Song Dynasty.

After New Year’s Eve, Kaifeng—the capital of Song—would host temple fairs, and the venue was none other than the city’s grandest temple. This was the largest and most magnificent Buddhist temple in the realm, one of the famed “Eight Scenes of the Eastern Capital”: the Great Xiangguo Temple.

During temple fairs at the Great Xiangguo Temple and its surroundings, the festivities included rituals to honor the gods, entertain the gods, worship, amusements, marketplaces, wrestling, acrobatics, and even contests of martial skill and poetry between scholars. It was truly one of the most important celebrations for the people of Kaifeng.

“Brother, brother, hurry... Hurry up, hurry!” Little Bean Sprout, perched atop Li Sanjian’s shoulders, excitedly slapped his head, shouting with joy.

The small feet resting against Li Sanjian’s chest swung back and forth, as if riding a horse.

The day was bright and sunny; though still winter, the sunlight was warm, bathing the people in gentle warmth.

Li Sanjian, together with Ran Yunbiao and Zeng Gongming, brought Little Bean Sprout to the Great Xiangguo Temple. Along the way, the crowds were dense, shoulder to shoulder, thronging every street. Li Sanjian had expected the temple fair, beloved by the people of Kaifeng, to be busy, but he had never imagined it would be this overwhelming.

When they were still two or three miles from the temple, they could barely move forward. Everywhere he looked, people wearing all manner of clothing filled the streets: men and women, young and old, with hair styled in myriad fashions. It was impossible to push ahead.

Li Sanjian had no choice but to let Little Bean Sprout ride on his shoulders, making way with the help of the burly Shan Kui, flanked by Ran Yunbiao and Zhang the Daoist on either side, barely able to inch closer to the temple.

Despite the cold weather in Kaifeng, the group was soon drenched in sweat from the press of bodies—Zeng Gongming especially, sweat pouring like rain—though they were much warmer for it.

“Wow...” After much struggle, they finally managed to reach the Xiangguo Temple Bridge before the grand gate. Gazing at the majestic, sprawling temple, they couldn’t help but exclaim in awe.

The Great Xiangguo Temple, originally named Jianguo Temple, was founded in the sixth year of the Northern Qi’s Tianbao era. In the first year of Tang’s Yanhe era, Emperor Ruizong renamed it in honor of ascending the throne from the position of Prince Xiang. In the Northern Song, the temple was greatly esteemed by the imperial family, expanded several times, becoming the capital’s largest monastery and the Buddhist center of the nation.

In the fifth year of Yuanfeng, Emperor Shenzong decreed the temple’s sixty-four courtyards to be divided into eight Zen and two Vinaya halls. The entire temple was adorned with red walls and green tiles, its halls towering, the sound of its bells resonating across the city.

The area around the temple teemed with crowds: devotees from all over the Song, throngs of worshippers, and countless merchants selling wares both inside and outside the temple.

The goods on offer were diverse—incense papers, candlesticks, meats, fruits and vegetables, drinks, all sorts of snacks, trinkets and curiosities. Li Sanjian even spotted foreign merchants hawking exotic treasures from distant lands.

Apart from these, there were taverns, teahouses, theaters, and even brothels standing outside the temple...

“Hey there, young gentleman downstairs, come in—let your sister sing you a couple of songs to ease your boredom!”

“Hurry along, dear, it won’t cost you a thing—your sister will give it to you for free, haha.”

“Look at that young fellow with a child—the flesh on him is so fair, sister can barely resist!”

“Sister Rong, that young gentleman is still clothed, you know.”

The courtesans at the brothel, draped in silks and satins of every hue, decked out in flamboyant fashion, giggled and bantered, teasing the guests with playful words.

“Let’s move, let’s move!” Li Sanjian, embarrassed and blushing, clutched Little Bean Sprout’s legs and urged them forward.

“Miss, my flesh is fair too—how about a candlelit stroll tonight?” Zeng Gongming chimed in.

“Out with you! With all that fat, are you trying to starve your sister? And you ladies, though I’m thin, my flesh is like immortal meat! Interested?” Zhang the Daoist retorted.

Zeng Gongming and Zhang the Daoist were fearless, arms slung around each other, sparring wittily with the brothel girls.

Ran Yunbiao stood aside, laughing heartily at the spectacle.

“Let’s go, it’s even livelier over there,” Li Sanjian said, luring Zeng Gongming and Zhang the Daoist away.

Reluctantly, the two left the brothel girls and followed Li Sanjian and the others to a particularly bustling spot.

Here, a low earthen platform stood two feet above the ground, surrounded by draped curtains. From outside, Li Sanjian couldn’t see what lay within, but atop the stage were weapon racks, bristling with swords, spears, and halberds. Colorful banners adorned the corners, and on either side stood tables covered with brocade, likely for the martial contests.

On the platform were also officials in robes of many colors, some with swords slung at their waists, which puzzled Li Sanjian.

Could this be an official contest organized by the authorities? he wondered.

Around the stage, the crowd was dense and restless, heads bobbing with excitement.

Li Sanjian secretly hoped to witness a martial arts contest for marriage—though he himself was no fighter, the spectacle would be delightful.

But what followed left him somewhat disappointed.

After a brief burst of drums and gongs, four men appeared on stage, taking their positions in the center.

Two wore the uniforms and swords of Song military officers, which was unremarkable, but the other two beside them were astonishing: both were burly, with flesh bulging like mountains, nearly naked save for a sash at the waist and a loincloth, each with a cap atop their heads.

Aren’t they cold? Li Sanjian shivered at the sight, goosebumps rising on his arms.

Yet the two seemed unfazed by the chill, their exposed skin steaming faintly in the winter air.

Li Sanjian didn’t yet know what event was about to unfold, but judging by their appearance, it had to be a wrestling match—something he was somewhat familiar with.

Indeed, after a moment, the two officers separated the wrestlers with canes, and one officer turned to the crowd and announced loudly, “According to ancient custom, they battle with skill and wit, trained in old techniques—leg grabs and waist holds. May the year bring fair weather and prosperity. Place your bets and join the contest...”

“This is the Guanzhong style versus the Southern style...” With the opening words complete, the other officer sang the names of the two wrestlers.

The crowd erupted in cheers and excitement. Li Sanjian thought the match was about to begin, but to his surprise, after the introductions, the men left the stage, replaced by several young women...

“Permit us to perform for your pleasure—spear thrusts, sword swings, kicks and leaps. The mountain rises in the west, the waters flow east, the sea’s waves connect north and south...” The girls, dressed in martial attire, saluted and sang in unison.

The crowd was accustomed to such spectacles, their cheers growing ever louder and more enthusiastic.

The young women stepped to the center, planted their feet, raised their hands, and let them fall slowly. Suddenly, with a low shout, they spread their arms like parting waters, fierce and powerful, fists clenched at their waists, breath steady in their cores. The left hand punched forward from the waist, shifting from horse stance to bow stance, then a swift, direct kick, nimble as a swallow, leaping and kicking again, landing in a split with arms extended, palms upright.

Still as a maiden, swift as a hare! Their movements were crisp and graceful, most impressive of all was their perfect synchronization—no deviation, a testament to years of training.

Wrestling, also called jiaodi or grappling, was among the most thrilling entertainments of the Song. Besides official matches, folk troupes made a living performing wrestling.

To attract larger audiences, before the main event, women or children would often perform wrestling exhibitions.

Among these, women’s wrestling was the most eye-catching; sometimes even mixed matches between men and women were staged.

The most sensational was female nude wrestling, with nearly naked women grappling, sending spectators into wild excitement.

This custom persisted until the reign of Emperor Renzong.

Emperor Renzong, like the common folk, loved wrestling, often sneaking out to watch folk matches, relishing the spectacle.

The scenes of bodies clashing amid cheers exhilarated the emperor, who rewarded the performers lavishly—until he provoked the ire of high officials led by Sima Guang. They submitted memorials condemning female wrestling as indecent and improper, subtly criticizing the emperor’s conduct. Thus, from Renzong’s reign onward, female wrestling was banned.

Nevertheless, despite the official prohibition, folk wrestling still featured women’s matches from time to time. At the present New Year’s temple fair, with such large crowds, no one dared attempt female wrestling; instead, young women performed martial arts displays. After their performance, the mighty wrestlers took the stage.

The women’s exhibition won thunderous applause, and Li Sanjian and his companions watched with delight. Little Bean Sprout hugged Li Sanjian’s head, squealing with joy.

When the women finished, the formidable wrestlers entered.

The Guanzhong and Southern styles faced off, eyes wide, staring down each other like tigers, as if ready to devour their opponent.

The audience held its breath, the only sound was the wrestlers’ heavy breathing.

Suddenly, both unleashed a furious roar and grappled fiercely.

According to the rules, wrestlers could shout insults, punch, kick, throw, lift, and twist, but were forbidden to grab the sash, tear off the loincloth, or use weapons.

The Southern wrestler had the clear advantage—his roar was thunderous, and he threw his opponent to the ground, pinning him firmly, leaving the Guanzhong wrestler unable to move.